Friday, February 27, 2015

Well, who knew that one of the original Web Neanderthals who has clung to Word only if not No. 2 pencils and legal pads would actually have a blog. Like most things inherently American, a conspiracy was responsible. Now Joe Paris will not be the only member of the Shy-yo tribe to assault readers' sensibilities.
For six years, from 1997-2003, I was the restaurant critic for the Lafayette Daily Advertiser, during which time I also published food reviews in the New Orleans Times Picayune and on Emeril Lagasse's website.
When Gannett Publishing of USA Today infamy took over the Hub City's paper, the new brain trust decided to eliminate food writing in its only Cajun country daily. I said something to them in French that was translated to feature the last part of a chicken to clear a fence, when actually I was referring to the byproduct that emanated from that part. I quit or was fired, depending on whose story you believe. It was just as well since I was up to nearly 300 pounds.
Often I've been asked to name to best place to go for this or that Cajun or Creole specialty, which would be purely subjective in nature. Also, "best" encompasses a list of places, not one place. There is no such thing as the "best" gumbo or poboy in Lafayette, whose area chefs regularly best New Orleans chefs in head-to head competitions.
Following that train of thought, naming the best dish I've had or the single best restaurant might seem impossible, but if a loaded link of crawfish boudin was held to my head, one of the dishes  I would have to mention would be the Frog Legs Etouffee at Robin's in Henderson, cooked in a Dutch oven and requiring advance ordering or a 45-minute wait that is worth it, and how. Rich and savory beyond normal description, this is a dish nicely complimented by half a dozen fried frog legs.
Of the more than 300 published reviews in my name, ironically it was two restaurants outside of the accepted "Acadiana" region of Cajun country that most captured my imagination. The first was Joe's at the Dreyfus Store in Livonia. off U.S. 190 between Opelousas and Baton Rouge. With everything from hog's head cheese to escargot on the menu, the variety of honest, top-notch blue-collar specials was mind-boggling.
Alas, Joe's closed a number of years ago, but still in business after many years is the Bayou Bistro in the old officer's club at England Air Force Base in  Alexandria. This is among the top places in the state for fine dining. Normally the best food is not to be found at white-tablecloth places, but BB is an exception.
I'll be posting a regular food blog that I would appreciate any and all feedback on, but right now I have to head out to Coleman's meat market near Iota in Acadia Parish for some of the best boudin in the area and maybe some fresh pork sausage or some nice center-cut chops for a BBQ this twilight. Good eating.